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Making Chainmaille Jewelry for Men? Here is a Byzantine Tip That Has a Sturdy, Rugged Look

by Matthew Woodbury

Chainmaille Jewelry Tip:

I discovered an interesting character change making Byzantine out of square wire. To me, each chain has a gender; most chainmaille looks lacy and feminine. But when I experimented with square wire jump rings my Byzantine took on a sturdy, secure, masculine appearance. I was astonished that by just changing the shape of the wire I was able to change the look of the chain so drastically. Your aesthetics may judge this look completely differently than me, which is fine. The look is different and that is a thing we can all agree on.

Another aspect I particularly liked was the weightiness. It is heavy! To me this also makes it masculine.

Technical Note:

I noticed a very slight tightness change in the chain using square wire. It does not make a marked change in the ring ratios. In the illustration above I used 18 gauge wire with a 4mm ID.

Making Square Jump Ring tips:

square jump rings

Figure 1

If you make jump rings yourself it can be challenging to make square wire jump rings like Figure 1. The flat side of the square wire does not automatically stay parallel to the mandrel. When this happens the wire twists while forming around the mandrel and the jump rings come out with the square wire rotated. See Figure 2.

Figure 2

Here is what I do to control the rotation of the wire. You will need a pair of square nose pliers with well polished inside jaws and rounded outside jaw edges. Use the pliers to both provide moderate tension and correct alignment to feed the wire to the mandrel. The pliers jaws will grasp the left and right side of the square wire. As the mandrel is turned the pliers will burnish (polish) the sides of the wire to a fine polish if they are smooth.

I did end up making some square jump rings with the pointed side on the inside of the jump ring like figure 2. This also has an interesting effect on chainmaille jewelry. To make this style consistently just rotate the pliers 45 degrees and hold it steady while feeding your wire onto the mandrel.

Where to get square wire jump rings

If you do not make jump rings yourself do not worry. You can buy the Figure 1 style from Rio Grande. You will find them on page 413 of Aug. 2004-2005, or page 425 of Aug. 2005-2006 catalogue. Click here to order this catalogue now!


Creative Note:

See what you think. Experiment. Try something new. Remember to be creative, it is so stimulating and rewarding. All you have to do to start receiving ideas is to be open to the possibility. Just like we all have unique fingerprints, we all have unique ideas.

Let your unique creative energies out of the trap that says, “Been there done that.” This attitude is certain death to an artist. Adopt a creative attitude. This leads the way to a new approach. Look closer and listen again. It is entirely possible to miss gems of ideas. We artists must be wary of a blase approach when it comes to designing beautiful jewelry- it shows.

We can create only from our wealth or poverty of ideas. If you have run out, have faith, and open up, recognize the non-productive attitudes and breathe some fresh air today.


Chainmaille Jewelry Pattern e-book

Breathe new life into your jewelry creations. Chainmaille is a fantastic style that fits anywhere, is simple to make, and so rewarding when finished you will go back again and again to make more intricate jewelry.

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"I have been wearing the chainmaille bracelets I have made with your e-book (various patterns) and people will grab my arm to look closely at them and when I say I made it, and see the look on their face, it is so... rewarding. And right behind that, I get asked if I sell them and at what price. "
- Rita, AZ

 

About the Author

Matthew Woodbury has been making and designing handmade crafts for 30 years. Matthew apprenticed under his mother, a silversmith and paint media artist who studied in Germany. As a professional designer for 15 years his favorite medium is precious metal. He has enjoyed the thrill of making custom jewelry for select clientele. His passion is all about designing beautiful functional jewelry that people use, not art jewelry that belongs on exhibit. Years ago wood was his first passion but metal won him over. He has made a classical guitar and holds a Bachelors of Music in classical guitar. We think it is his background and multi-disciplined approach to jewelry that makes him unique in his field. You might call him a well rounded cross-trainer. His family going back 155 years were all artists of the finest caliber and some with international reputation.

Matthew is promoting his new Chainmaille Jewelry Pattern e-book, chainmaille jewelry you can definitely make yourself.


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Copyright © 2005 Matthew Woodbury.

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